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History of Canopy Lodge

your host, Raul Arias de Para

The history of Canopy Lodge begins more than 75 years ago when my father, Don Tomas Arias Revello, first went to El Valle de Anton in search of a peaceful and secluded place to build a week-end home. At that time the road ended about 15 kilometers from the center of the village and the last stretch was done on foot or on horseback. The trip lasted the better part of a long day, and sometimes the traveler had to spend the night along the way.

He came many times over a period of several years and explored the area extensively until he found the spot of his dreams. It was next to a clear and fast moving stream, the Rio Guayabo, at the foot of some of the tallest mountains in the valley1 and far from everything else. Many years later he told me he could have chosen any piece of land in El Valle, it was all unoccupied public land at the time, but he chose this spot precisely because of its seclusion and the proximity to the stream. He named it Finca Escucha Ruido, "listens to the sounds" -- no doubt inspired by one of the stops of the train which carried the gold from the legendary mines of Cana, in Darien, to the port in Boca de Cupe for shipping to Panama City, and which was named Escucha Ruido.2

My father quickly built a small house in his chosen spot, a one bedroom structure made of mud and "pajita" (a special type of straw) following the traditional construction method of the "campesinos." Shortly thereafter he married my mother Leticia, and, yes, you guessed it, they spent their honeymoon here.

That happy union produced six children, four boys and two girls. I'm number five.

My earliest recollection of wilderness and nature takes place in El Valle: horseback riding, bathing in the stream, camping in the nearby mountains, eating "guabas" straight from the trees, watching birds without knowing I was birdwatching. There was no electricity, no TV (to this day I refuse to have a TV in El Valle), no newspapers; it was just a duo of us and nature. Some nights we would go to the stream to catch crayfish and to the forest edge for "cocuyos", light bugs. There was also a Zenith short wave radio and we would all sit around it in the evenings to hear the news of the world and to listen to classical music.

Every year we spent the school vacations in El Valle, three months of every year in Paradise! We also came often for weekends during the rest of the year. It was absolutely wonderful! The days went by quickly, effortlessly, joyfully. I have no sad memories whatsoever of that period of my life. There was only one thing I did not like. Every year, before leaving Panama City, my mother would take me to a barbershop and cut my hair very, very short, in the style of Yul Brynner. There being no barbers in El Valle, the cut had to last all three months.

Thus were spent the first eighteen years of my life.

As you can imagine, so many things happened between then and now, it would take too long to write them all. I would rather tell you those stories over a cup of coffee or a glass of wine when you visit our lodge in El Valle. For the moment let me say that El Valle is my favorite place on earth3 and I'm so happy that, finally, I am able to share it with the many friends I have made in the Canopy Tower.

1These mountains are now part of the protected lands of the Cerro Gaital Natural Monument.
2In his youth my father visited Darien many times to supervise the operation of the Cana Gold Mines in which my grandfather, Don Tomas Arias Avila, one of the Founders of the Republic of Panama, had a controlling interest. Those trips to Darien, almost a century ago, must have produced a deep impression on my father because he also assigned the name Nueva Cana to a section of his newly acquired property. Furthermore, he kept in his bedroom, up to his last days, two bronze clocks used in the vessel "Cana", a small steamship which transported the gold ingots from Darien to Panama City. One of these clocks is now in my house in El Valle and the other in the lodge's library.
3The Canopy Tower comes in a close second, a very close second. Mainly because I have known it only since 1996 while my relationship with El Valle is 58 years old, as old as me.

back to the El Valle page



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